The high-rise pole of the country — Communism Peak (7495 m) is in northwest part of Pamir, on a joint of ridges of Akademii Nauk and Peter I. Honor of opening of ridge of Peter I belongs to V. F. Oshanin (1880), ridge of Academy of Sciences — to N. L. Korzhenevsky (1927). The peak of Somoni (Ex-communism) is the highest top of Pamir and the former USSR. The first ascension on top was made by Evgeny Abalakov in 1933 as a part of Tajik-Pamir expedition of Academy of Sciences of the USSR from a glacier Camp. On the western slopes of top, at the height about 6000 m, the unique Pamir neve plateau breaking to glaciers Fortambek and Walter from the North and to Belyaev’s glacier from the South kilometer steep walls was stretched. Classical routes of ascension go on top through a neve plateau from a glacier Fortambek, on an edge of the Petrel, and from Walter’s glacier, on Borodkin’s edge.
The safest route leads from the Walter Glacier bivouac (4500 m) to and across the Big Pamir Plateau (at about 6000 m, 3 km wide by 12 km long). The climb of Peak Dunshabe (6950 m) follows and the main summit is reached by a long and steep ice slope.
Hike up the Walter Glacier. Traverse through northern slope (4 — 5 hrs).
To the Camp (5300 m). Hiking up by the right side of the moraine of the Walter Glacier. Crossing the glacier by the ice plateau under the walls of Pamir Big Plateau. It is necessary to cross it as early as possible and at maximum speed. Further the route follows by rock section to the crest (about 6-7 hours).
Camp (5300 m) — Camp (5800 m). Northern ridge (4-5 hrs). This part of the route is technically not difficult, wide snow crest with parts of 35-40 degrees steepness. The camp is located in mould.
Camp (5800 m) — Camp (6100 m). Pamir big Plateau (4-5 hrs). Early start and ascent to the two-headed summit. Climbing in roped-party. Traverse to the left to the top and then descent to Pamir Big Plateau.
Camp (6900 m) — northern snow/ice slope of Mt. Peak Dushanbe (7-8 hrs). Early start. Climbing in roped-party. An ascent is technically easy. After ascent to Mt. Peak Dushanbe (7000 m.) descent to the camp at 6900m.
Camp (6900 m) — summit — back to camp (6900 m) (8-9 hrs). Early start. The route climbs up the steep snow slope to the rocks. Above this, there is an exposed part leads to the summit.
Program of expedition with approximate suggested ascending itinerary:
Day 1. Arrival in Dushanbe. Accommodation in hotel.
Day 2. Take helicopter flight to Base Camp at Moskvina glacier.
Day 3. Preparation day.
Day 4. Acclimatization climb to Vorobiova Peak (to the camp at 5300m)
Day 5. Climb the summit of Vorobiov Peak. (5690 m). Descend to BC.
Day 6. Rest day.
Day 7. Preparation day.
Day 8. Climb to Camp 1 (5100 m.)
Day 9. Climb to Camp 2 (5800 m.)
Day 10. Descend to Base Camp (BC).
Day 11. Rest day.
Day 12. Preparation day.
Day 13. Climb to Camp 1 (5100 m)
Day 14. Climb to Camp 2 (5800 m)
Day 15. Climb to Camp 3 (6100 m).
Day 16. Climb to Camp 4 (6900 m) or (6700 m).
Day 17. Ascend to the summit 7495 m and descend to Camp 4 or Camp 2.
Day 18. Descend to Camp 1 or Camp 2.
Day 19. Descend to Base Camp
Days 20-25. Reserve days in case of bad weather.
Day 26. Take helicopter flight to Dushanbe. Overnight in hotel.
Day 27. Departure from Dushanbe.
The cost of full package program in 2015: 2500 Euro per person
The cost includes:
- Arranging of necessary documents
- Meeting / seeing off transfers from / to airport
- All transfers according to the program
- Helicopter flights Dushanbe- BC (Moskvina Glade)-Dushanbe with 30kg / person luggage limit (overload payment – 4,5 Euro / kg — max 10 kg. of extra luggage)
- Accommodation in Dushanbe (hotel 2* with breakfast, Twin room, 2 nights)
Services in Base Camp:
- Accommodation in shared (between 2-3 persons) tents (tents in the Base Camp are improved with wooden flooring, and electric lighting)
- Full board (variety of food including vegetarian, 3 meals a day from professional chef, possibility for special personal ordering)
- Toilets, luggage office (tent) at BC
- Sauna (steam room) at BC
- Medical services (by professional doctor) in BC
- Electric supply 220V; 50HZ
- High-altitude guide consultancy services
- Registration with rescue team
The cost does not include:
- The cost of visa support (24 Euro/pax)
- Document of acceptance of tourist (7 Euro/pax)
- Tajikistan visa (48 Euro/pax)
- Services of high-altitude guides and porters during ascending
- Rent of mountaineering gear
- Gas canisters and petrol for stoves and burners
Accommodation in tents – 8-10 Euro/pax
Meal: breakfast – 10 Euro, lunch – 15 Euro, dinner — 15 Euro
Shower/ Sauna – 5 Euro/ 10Euro/pax
- New gas canisters (230 mg) – 8 Euro/gas canister (reduction 1,5 Euro for return of used canister)
- Satellite phone, e-mail, bar – according to price list of the Base Camp
- Rent of radio station – 5 Euro/pair (per day)
- Services of a mountain guide – 50 Euro/day
- Services of porters for ascending:
— (4200 – 5300 м) — 8 Euro/kg,
— (5300 – 5800 м) — 12 Euro/kg,
— (5800 – 6300 м) — 20 Euro/kg,
— (> 6300 м) — 28 Euro/kg.
Also, you can see our other 7000 meter peaks expeditions:
- Lenin Peak
- Pobeda Peak
- Korzhenevskaya Peak