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Expedition to Korzhenevskaya Peak (7105m)
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Expedition to Korzhenevskaya Peak (7105m)

Evgenia Korzhenevskaya’s peak (7105 m) — fourth «seven-chiliarch» of our country, is in the northernmost tip of ridge of Academy of Sciences. The top was opened by the Russian scientist, the geographer N. L. Korzhenevsky on August 10, 1910 and was called in honor of the researcher’s wife — Evgenia Korzhenevskaya. Since 1927 the name of peak of Korzhenevskaya officially appeared on maps.

On attendance the top is on the third place, after Lenin peak and Communism Peak. For today routes about 10 options of complexity conducting on top are known. The safest and least difficult route of ascension begins from Moskvin’s glacier and passes on the Southern edge.

Expedition to Korzhenevskaya Peak (7105m)

Route description

The safest way leads up from the Korzhenevski Glacier; mostly easy rock scrambling low down with extended snow and ice above.To the Camp (5100 m.) Hiking up along small river and crossing the Moskvin glacier lead to the first bivouac site.

Camp (5100 m.) – Camp (5300 m.) The route goes along rather steep glacier, which comes down from the south slope of the mountain. Camp 5300m. is located at morene. In the case of good weather you’ll see all further way to the summit from this camp.

Camp (5300 m.) – Camp (6100 m.) – Above this, the route continues up the ice/snow slope and then a long traverse using crampons and ice axes toward the south ridge.

Camp (6100 m.) – Camp (6400 m.) – Here climbers meet the key of this route — the vertical rock step of about 50 m. Then – long and technically easy way up along the snow crest.

Camp (6400 m.) – summit – The route follows the snow crest towards the top. The joy of thousand summits (especially, Communism Peak) in the view from here is great!


Day 1. Arrival in Dushanbe. Accommodation in hotel.

Day 2. Take helicopter flight to Base Camp at Moskvina glacier.

Day 3. Preparation day.

Day 4. Acclimatization climb to Vorobiova Peak (to the camp at 5300m)

Day 5. Climb the summit of Vorobiov Peak. (5690 m). Descend to BC.

Day 6. Rest day.

Day 7. Preparation day.

Day 8. Climb to Camp 1 (5100 m.)

Day 9. Climb to 5300 m Descend to Base Camp (BC).

Day 10. Rest day.

Day 11. Preparation day.

Day 12. Climb to Camp 1 (5300 m)

Day 13. Climb to Camp 2 (5800 m)

Day 14. Descend to Base Camp

Day 15. Rest day

Day 16. Rest day

Day 17. Camp 1 (5300m)

Day 18. Camp 2 (5800m)

Day 19. Camp 3 (6400m)

Day 20. Ascend to the summit 7105 m and descend to Camp 3 or Camp 2.weather.

Day 21. Descent to BC

Days 22-25. Reserve days in case of bad

Day 26. Take helicopter flight to Dushanbe. Overnight in hotel.

Day 27. Departure from Dushanbe.

The cost of full package program in 2015: 2500 Euro per person

The cost includes:

  • Arranging of necessary documents
  • Meeting / seeing off transfers from / to airport
  • All transfers according to the program
  • Helicopter flights Dushanbe- BC (Moskvina Glade)-Dushanbe with 30kg / person luggage limit (overload payment – 4,5 Euro / kg — max 10 kg of extra luggage)
  • Accommodation in Dushanbe (hotel 2* with breakfast, Twin room, 2 nights)

Services in Base Camp:

  • Accommodation in shared (between 2-3 persons) tents (tents in the Base Camp are improved with wooden flooring, and electric lighting)
  • Full board (variety of food including vegetarian, 3 meals a day from professional chef, possibility for special personal ordering)
  • Toilets, luggage office (tent) at BC
  • Sauna (steam room) at BC
  • Medical services (by professional doctor) in BC
  • Electric supply 220V; 50HZ
  • High-altitude guide consultancy services
  • Registration with rescue team

The cost does not include:

  • The cost of visa support (24 Euro/pax)
  • Document of acceptance of tourist (7 Euro/pax)
  • Tajikistan visa (48 Euro/pax)
  • Services of high-altitude guides and porters during ascending
  • Rent of mountaineering gear
  • Gas canisters and petrol for stoves and burners

Additional services

  • Filling of gas canisters (230 mg) – 3 Euro/gas canister
  • New gas canisters (230 mg) – 8 Euro/gas canister (reduction 1,5 Euro for return of used canister)
  • Satellite phone, e-mail, bar – according to price list of the Base Camp
  • Rent of radio station – 5 Euro/pair (per day)
  • Services of a mountain guide – 50 Euro/day
  • Services of porters for ascending:

— (4200 – 5300 м) — 8 Euro/kg,

— (5300 – 5800 м) — 12 Euro/kg,

— (5800 – 6300 м) — 20 Euro/kg,

— (> 6300 м) — 28 Euro/kg.

Separate services

Accommodation in tents – 10 Euro/pax

Meal: breakfast – 10 Euro, lunch – 15 Euro, dinner — 15 Euro

Shower/ Sauna – 5 Euro/ 10Euro/pax.

Also, you can see our other 7000 meter peaks expeditions:

  • Lenin Peak
  • Communism peak
  • Khan-tengri
  • Pobeda Peak
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