The highest point of Tien Shan — Pobeda Peak is on 7439 m above sea level is the most northern seven-chiliarch and one of the mountains, most difficult for ascension. The first it was subdued by the Soviet climbers – L. Guttman, E. Ivanov and A. Sidorenko’s group.
Its southern slope (was for the first time obedient from China) – simpler on the relief and meteoconditions. Only in 20 years V. Abalakov’s group could ascend to top Pobeda Peak on its northern slope.
Pobeda Peak logs in Koshkaal-limited liability partnership ridge in Kyrgyzstan, on border with China. On a northern spur of ridge three peaks – Pobeda Peak Main, Pobeda Peak Western and Nehru’s peak are allocated. The seven-chiliarch is only Main, two don’t hold out others to treasured 7 000 only a little.
All history of conquest of Pobeda Peak says that creation of the strong, solid collective capable to fight against extremely difficult environment has to precede successful ascension. Pobeda Peak – the mountain with very nasty character which already managed to become a legend. Unexpected flaws, snow-storms, temperature to-30 Celsius. Pobeda Peak doesn’t forgive mistakes.
Categories of complexity of climbing Pobeda Peak are defined from the 5th to the most difficult, 6th category, depending on a route choice. Ascension is considered one of the most dangerous and difficult. However, many professional climbers and groups of fans want to test the strength. In recent years routes of Pobeda Peak stopped being so risky, as in pre-war years. The modern equipment and the equipment, rescue teams ready to move forward to the aid on the first signal, the detailed worked maps. Nevertheless, in mountains it is difficult to be absolute in something and unconditionally sure. Therefore, each ascension is the real feat, the best check of character, and test for durability. The success of climbing Pobeda Peak was promoted in many respects by attention, which was paid to the equipment of camps that in severe conditions plays a crucial role in restoration of moral and physical forces of climbers.
The most often climbed route, coming from the Southwest involves many kilometers of a mixed and broken ridge which is all situated above 7000 meter.
Advanced bace camp is located at Zvjozdochka glacier at 4600 m. Then early in the morning we head for camp at 5300m on Dickiy pass. Camp 3 is at snow plateau at 5700 metres where we will either use snow caves or tents. Further camps are then established at 6400m and 6800m, the upper camp being just before the long traverse (about 6 km. at the altitude above 7000m.) to the summit ridge. A final snow cave is normally established at 7100m towards the other end of the long traverse. The summit day is relatively long.
Program of expedition with approximate suggested ascending itinerary:
Day 1. Arrival to Almaty/Bishkek, transfer to Base Camp «Karkara». Overnight in tent in BC.
Day 2. Rest day or acclimatization hiking near camp.
Day 3. Helicopter flight to Base Camp «South Inylchek»
Day 4. Rest and acclimatization.
Day 5. Rest and acclimatization.
Day 6. Ascent to the camp 4600 m.
Day 7. Ascent to the camp 5300 m.
Day 8. Ascent to the camp 5700 m.
Day 9. Ascent to the camp 6400 m.
Day 10. Descent to the Base Camp «South Inylchek»
Day 11. Rest day.
Day 12. Rest day.
Day 13. Ascent to the camp 4600 m.
Day 14. Ascent to the camp 5300 m.
Day 15. Ascent to the camp 5700 m.
Day 16. Ascent to the camp 6400 m.
Day 17. Ascent to the camp 6900 m.
Day 18. Ascent to the camp 7100 m.
Day 19. Ascent to the summit 7439 m. and descent to the camp 6900 m.
Day 20. Descent to the camp 5700 m.
Day 21. Descent to the camp 4600 m.
Day 22. Descent to the Base Camp «South Inylchek»
Day 23. Reserve day.
Day 24. Reserve day.
Day 25. Helicopter flight to Base Camp «Karkara» and drive to Almaty/Bishkek. Accommodation and overnight in a hotel or guest-house.
Day 26. Transfer to airport and departure.
Cost of program from Almaty or Bishkek in 2016
The price of full package: 1800 USD per person
- Ecological tax
- Visa support (if necessary)
- Border zone access permit
- All transfers (in accordance with program)
- Return helicopter flight Karkara — South Inylchek with no limit of buggae
- Guest-house or hotel accommodation on half twin base in Almaty/Bishkek
- Lunch-boxes on the way to Base Camp and back
- Full board in Base Camps «Karkara» and «South Inylchek»
- Accommodation in double tents in Base Camps
- Dining-tent and Kitchen-tent in BC and ABC
- Cooking accessories in BC and ABC
- Consultations of experience guide
- Interpreter’s service in BC and ABC
- Medical aid in ABC (including complete set of oxygen equipment — mask, reducer, cylinder)
- Radio support therefore you have to bring your own portable radio
- Permanent source of Electricty in Base Camp «Karkara», 220V 50Hz
- Power generator (220V) for lighting and charging in the evening time in Base Camp «South Inylchek
- Washing cabin and sauna in Base Camp
- Toilets in BC and ABC
- Evacuation of garbage from BC and ABC
Price doesn’t include:
- Cost of visa
- International flights
- Cost of rescue team support (Depends on difficulty of rescue works)
- Personal climbing equipment
- High altitude climbing tents
- Food away from base camps
- Alcoholic beverages
Cost of additional service in 2016
1 guide for 1 person – 2250 USD
1 guide for 2 persons – 2600 USD
1 guide for 3 persons – 3000 USD
Rent of Equipment
Rent of high altitude tent – 80 USD per tent for climbing period.
Gas cartridge Kovea (230ml, screw) – 9 USD per cartridge.
When you planing expedition and buying airtickets please check before our helicopter schedule.
|BC “South Inylchek”
Also, you can see our other 7000 meter peaks expeditions:
- Lenin Peak
- Communism peak
- Korjenevskaya Peak