Tuyuk Su Peak

The Tuyuk Su Peak top is in the Maloalmatinsky spur on the southwest from the pass with the same name in height of 4100 m. the Snezhno-ice crest with freakish snow eaves connects it to a file of the Needle of the Tuyuk Su Peak. On the northwest the rocky crest with sharp differences of height departs. On northern and western slopes a considerable freezing, southern are strongly destroyed, east, going down towards gorge of Left Talgara, are covered by taluses and sites of strongly destroyed rocks.

From pass the ascension begins on a wide northeast crest. On its East side powerful eaves (carefully hang down!). Through 70м the crest goes down, becomes snow, with sites of easy rocks a little, and through 200м the key place of a route – a 5-meter ice wall is reached. Here depending on a crest condition on an ice axe or an ice hook it is necessary to hang a rope for descent and lifting.

Through 50 m from a wall the approach to easy rocks and on them – on top from South side. It rises over a crest on 120м and represents a heap of rocky blocks. Time for an ascension 8 – 9 hours, from them 3,5 – 4 hours on descent.

1. Quantity of participants – no more than 6 persons.

2. An initial bivouac on a glacier moraine Youth.

3. An exit from a bivouac at 6 o’clock.